Nils von Barth

Now, as for Kyoto-style ramen. Perhaps surprisingly, Kyoto-style ramen is typically strong and thick, often soy-based, and the most distinctive feature is the Kujō negi (9th street scallions, a Kyoto varietal – sweet and fat) as a topping. When going to Kyoto-style ramen, ordering extra negi (“negi ōme”) is recommended.

There is in fact a (Japanese) wikipedia page on this topic: 京都ラーメン (admittedly, in Japanese, but listed noted restaurants and references).

Of these, the most notable (AFAICT) are as follows. None are exceptional, but they’re all ok.

A big national chain:

• Tenka Ippin (天下一品) – Kyoto-based (actually Ōtsu-based) national chain (have a building in Kamigamo, which a few small old buildings on the ground). Main attraction is very thick broth (こってり, kotteri), and lots of negi. Solid Kyoto-style, good in winter, but not otherwise exceptional, and rather heavy.

Two diner-ish places, next to each other, by Kyoto station (go east (right) from street in front of terminal building, then south (right) at first big intersection – there’s a massive sign for 新福 that’s very visible), each with a devoted following, and usually lines out the door. These are both small, v. casual, fast service places – think “diner”. The food’s not great at either, but it’s ok, and you may like the atmosphere.

• Honke Dai-ichi-asahi 本家 第一旭 (open 5 am ’til 2 am!). Fans include TANIGAWA Yoshimi (as per this KyotoFoodie story). Daiichiasahi is the better of the two shops, and accordingly usually has the longer lines. It has savory broth (due to onions, and a lot of salt, I suspect) and pretty tasty meat. The service and ambiance is also rather friendly “family restaurant” (there’s a Shinto shrine hanging from the ceiling in the corner, say, and if you order sake, it’s poured at your table from the large bottle standing on the counter).
• Shinpuku Saikan (新福菜館) – very dark black broth, in an overflowing bowl (served on plate to catch overflowing broth). Not impressed – kinda boring, and noodles rather soft (for my taste). There is also a branch shop (taberogu) just east of the imperial palace (on east-west street, just north of Kyoto Prefectural Center for Arts and Culture, just west of huge Kyoto Prefectural Medical College Hospital). There are other stores of this name (and perhaps company?) in town, but only this branch store is under the main store’s management.

Two others that Wikipedia mentions (but I’ve not checked out) are:

• ラーメン横綱 Rāmen Yokozuna (top Sumo rank) – tonkotsu (pork bone) and soy broth, with garlic and red pepper (tōgarashi) mixed in
• ますたに Masutani – original by Ginkakuji – broth based on chicken carcass, back fat, and soy sauce

A new sake bar that I highly recommend is JAM. It’s on Kawabata (east side of Kamo river), just north of Shijo (i.e., Gion).

Brief review

Great sake (from ¥400 per 100 ml glass), plus tastings (three sake, starting around ¥900 for three, price depends on your choices) in a casual, classy, friendly space. This is where I take my friends to get a drink (if sake).

It’s run by a younger couple (40s?), who are very friendly, and happy to chat or give recs. A little English, but not much.

There’s a small online list of sake, but the full list is several dozen sake, and they get new ones regularly. There’s a bit of an emphasis on Kyoto (the man’s hometown) and Niigata (the woman’s), but there’s sake from everywhere, and in various including some quite interesting ones (山廃 yamahai, say, and one or two aged vintage ones).

There is also some food, but these are very small and light bar snacks – eat before or after coming.

Background

This just opened in December (2011), and there’s a hostel upstairs which is just opening (hence likely expect younger, boisterous/lively crowd in future).

Website: JAM

Address

〒605-0079

東山区川端四条上ル常磐町170

JAM ホステル 1F

JAM Hostel 1st floor

Tokiwa-cho 170 Higashiyama

Kyoto JAPAN 605-0079

Hours (current)

Mon–Fri 17h-24h (5 pm to midnight)

Sat, Sun, Holiday 12h–24h (noon to midnight)