Kyoto Kiyamachi Hakata Nagahama Ramen Miyoshi

Greetings from Kyoto

Nagahama Ramen is located on Kiyamachi Street just south of the intersection with Sanjo Street. Kiyamachi is one of the neighborhoods in Kyoto that has a lot of drinking establishments. Unlike Ponto-cho, which is one street over to the east, or Gion, across the Kamo River, Kiyamachi offers mostly reasonably priced drinking establishments. This is the part of Kyoto where young people and students tend to go out.

And what must you have after some drinking, before you head home? Ramen, of course!

Nagahama Ramen is a ramen shop that I have been taking note of — and smelling — for more than a decade. When I was a grad student, I recall often walking past this place and holding my breath. Somehow, it is pretty stinky. Ramen shops don’t usually ‘stink’. Nagahama Ramen does! But, don’t take that to mean that it doesn’t taste good. The shop has a lot of fans and they say, yeah, well, it stinks outside, but once you get inside, it doesn’t smell. Hmm…interesting. Not at all ‘Kyoto’. Nagahama Ramen is from Hakata in Kyushu, not Kyoto.

I was out investigating a new sake bar with my friend and photographer Kosuke Okuda. After some sake, we were pretty sure that we needed to eat something, and that something would be ramen, of course!

We arrived at about 11pm on a weekday evening and had to wait about 10 minutes to get seated. The place is popular! While we waited outside I was thinking that it didn’t stink as much as I remembered.

Once inside we ordered up some ramen and as I was taking some snap shots with my iPhone of the very rundown and ramshackle interior I was scolded by the ramen making hottie gal behind the counter. That didn’t deter me, I was hoping she might come over and scold me some more, actually. But, she didn’t.

While we were waiting for our ramen, Kosuke asked me if I had been here before. And, I think I had, once. But in true night out in Kiyamachi fashion, I am not sure whether to call it a memory or a blur.

The ramen was good, not amazing. Normally I wouldn’t write about a place like this, it is really a dump. But, it is popular and the ramen is respectable. If you want to try an un-Kyoto restaurant, or want to say that you went to a stinky ramen shop that was quite tasty, or you just want some fattening food after some drinking in Kiyamachi — or you want all three — check out Nagahama Ramen!


11:00-6:00 am (last order 5:00am)
open everyday including Sunday

Hakata Nagahama Ramen Miyoshi (博多長浜ラーメン みよし)
website: no website
tel 075-211-8814
Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku, Ishiya-cho 115 Tsujita Bldg 1F (京都市中京区石屋町115 辻田ビル 1F)

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