Oh, I found some photos I snapped at a photoshoot several years ago of Cream’s Italian Leather, Japanese Linen, Nishijin Weaving Bags. They are pretty awesome! (I haven’t been over to Cream for a few years so I don’t know if they are still making exactly the same bags. The few, tiny photos on their website look the same to me though.)
I just got back from a midnight run to Kunitaya, you just cannot argue with a place like that! Surely THE VERY BEST selection of sake in Kyoto AND open until 1 am.
Rina, Thanks to you I discovered a new an excellent shinise in Kyoto for lunch. I visited Toriiwaro yesterday with a friend and really enjoyed it.
The Food
The oyako donburi was excellent, I think that it is the only thing that they offer for lunch. I did think that it was a little on the small side, but it is pretty heavy and ‘soupy’, I felt plenty full afterward. It came with a nice little cup of rich chicken stock. The accompanying takuan tsukemono was very run of the mill. But, for ¥850, I know of no better shinese lunch.
The Atmosphere
The atmosphere is really old Kyoto. We had lunch in a large, open room on the second floor overlooking a delightful and quite overgrown garden. This is a beautiful and quant machiya interior. You do have to sit on the floor, at low, tiny tables. After lunch we talked and sipped tea for another hour or so.
Where to Eat in Nishijin: Toriiwaro
Nishijin actually does not have many good restaurants, so this is a great place to go if you like chicken. I didn’t see the dinner menu, but I understand that it is mizudaki, chicken nabe. I am sure that it is really good.
Additional Kichisen Links:
Kyoto Foodie Series:
Osechi: What is Kyo-ryori (Kyoto Cuisine)?
http://kyotofoodie.com/kyoto-kichisen-what-is-kyoryori/
Osechi: Kyoto Kichisen Master Chef Yoshimi Tanigawa
http://kyotofoodie.com/kyoto-kichisen-master-chef-yoshimi-tanigawa/
Osechi: What is Osechi Ryori?
http://kyotofoodie.com/osechi-what-is-osechi-ryori/
Osechi: Shopping for Osechi Fish at Kyoto Wholesale Food Market
http://kyotofoodie.com/osechi-kyoto-wholesale-food-market-fish/
Osechi: Shopping for Osechi Vegetables at Kyoto Wholesale Food Market
http://kyotofoodie.com/osechi-kyoto-wholesale-food-market-vegetable/
Kichisen Osechi: Midnight Final Preparation and Meaning
http://kyotofoodie.com/kichisen-osechi-final-preparation/
Kichisen Kaiseki: Japanese New Year Shogatsu Ryori
http://kyotofoodie.com/kichisen-kaiseki-shogatsu-ryori/
Yoshimi Tanigawa on YouTube:
Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (1 of 5)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUsAkkCvJZU
Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (2 of 5)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToFhpBJfm0o
Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (3 of 5)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX082fHEKYE
Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (4 of 5)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvEu4O80GkE
Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (5 of 5)
Yeah, the JR Kyoto Station neighborhood is not much to write home about. JR built that monstrous carbuncle of a station a few years back and it has lots of restaurants in it, but the surrounding neighborhood hasn’t yet developed organically into something with a lot of interest and variety. Perhaps it never will. No one lives down there.
You could take the subway Karasuma Line up two stops to Shijo-Karasuma. There are lots more shops and restaurants there. You could walk in about 20 minutes too.
I do like Miwa’s idea of getting take-out from the food court at Isetan Department Store though. Japanese department store food courts are out of this world! You could try a whole bunch of different things, get some beers or sake too and have one heck of a dinner party in your room for like what you would spend on a single meal at an OK restaurant. The Kyoto department stores have both local things and food from other regions of Japan.
Hello Rupert,
Good question.
Several years ago an American came to Kyoto to apprentice at Kichisen for 6 months.
I just called Tanigawa-san and asked him how to reply to your question. He said that anyone that is serious about learning the proper and traditional way to make Kyoto Cuisine (Kyo-ryori) and is diligent hard working would be welcome to discuss apprenticing at Kichisen. Nationality, ability to speak Japanese, etc is not important.
If anyone is interested in contacting Kichisen, just use the email address on the page at the link below.
WiFi in Hotel Rooms: K’s House Kyoto
This is the place, I guess that it is a hostel, not a hotel. I know some people that have stayed here recently and they liked it. It is nice and new and clean.
Backpackers Hostel K’s House Kyoto (English language website)
Backpackers Hostel K’s House Kyoto
418 Nayacho, Shichijo-agaru, Dotemachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku,
Kyoto city, Japan 600-8142
TEL +(81)-75-342-2444 FAX +(81)-75-342-2440
email :kyoto@kshouse.jp
Hello Mora, I used to live in this neighborhood and I had been past the shop once but never in. Thanks much for the tip. I ventured over there are tried their chocolate. It is a great place. Thanks!
Hello Dess-tin,
Winter in Kyoto: Though snow can usually be seen on the surrounding mountaintops it rarely snows in Kyoto now. Accumulation is a rarity and only lasts for a few hours.
Bicycles in Kyoto: Yes, bicycles are a primary mode of transportation for many residents of the city. Sightseeing in Kyoto by bicycle is an excellent way to experience the city. Kyoto is a bicycle friendly city, ALTHOUGH, you must be careful parking a bicycle in the downtown areas, especially near stations and in the Shijo, Sanjo areas. Bicycles are impounded on a daily basis. Usually the impounding is done in the A.M. and not done on weekends. (I could be wrong about this or it could change any time.)
Rental: Try Kyoto Electric Bicycle Rental “Kyo no Raku Chari”, I haven’t rented a bicycle here before but I have heard good things about Kyo no Raku Chari. They have an English language website and it is conveniently located just off of Sanjo Street, near the Sanjo-Higashiyama intersection
Kyo no Raku Chari homepage:
Kyo no Raku Chari map:
http://eng.rentacycle.jp/mapinfo_e.html
Used Bicycle Purchase:
If you are going to be in town for a few weeks or months, you can often purchase a used bicycle in good condition at a reasonable price. There are numerous shops that sell them. Just ask around in your neighborhood.
Hello Kat,
Thanks for stopping by Kyoto Support and posting your question.
Regarding customs; Japanese customs are very different from other parts of the world, especially non-Asians cultures. Of course this is one of the things that makes Japan a very interesting place to visit. However, Japanese are very sophisticated in their understanding of Japan and other cultures. Japanese don’t expect visitors from abroad to behave just like Japanese. Japanese are most happy to see people visiting and appreciating Japan, even if you don’t do everything just like a native.
If you just use common sense, be polite, friendly, modest and so on, you should have no trouble. Just try to pay attention to what others do.
Cleanliness and Shoes in Japanese Culture
Do observe Japanese customs related to cleanliness, especially regarding shoes. In Japanese culture, shoes are dirty. And, in fact, shoes usually really are dirty, if you think about it. Check out a public restroom, especially a men’s public restroom anywhere in the world to confirm this.
There are two kinds of steps in Japan, wooden and stone or concrete. Wood is ‘clean’ and stone is ‘dirty’. That means, take your shoes off BEFORE stepping on anything wood. If a step is stone or concrete, you step on to it then take your shoes off. Actually, many Japanese today don’t know this rule. Just remember that pebbles stuck in your shoe treads will scratch and gouge wood, however they won’t bother stone and concrete.
Exploring and Eating on Your Own
Sorry, I don’t quite understand this point. If you could clarify a bit I will try to reply.
WiFi in Hotel Rooms
Free WiFi is not common here. Most hotels DO NOT yet offer it. Ethernet in hotels is common, though it is often fairly expensive. There is one new hotel that does offer free WiFi I heard, let me check the name, I can’t recall it at the moment.
Hello Chris,
Thanks for stopping in. Everyone, Chris has a great blog, check it out!
http://chriseatskyoto.blogspot.com/
Last time I was at Kikunoi Kiyamachi, about 6 months ago, the counter was smoking. I can’t imagine anything worse than a lovely kaiseki meal accompanied by lots of cigarette smoke. For me that is one important consideration.
Banter with the chef is always great. Last time I sat at the counter at Kikunoi Kiyamachi, probably 10 years ago, the chef was cussing out one of the underlings all through my meal. While I realize that severity with underlings improves the food, it should be kept out of public view.
It is fairly common to see Japanese chefs, especially at famous and expensive restaurant ripping on their staff. It really spoils a meal though. If you see it happening, don’t be afraid to tell them to take it outside.
I do agree with Chris that the social aspect of the counter at nice Japanese restaurants is great, but it is often accompanied by smoke.
By the way, in Japan, if someone is smoking next to you in a restaurant and you politely tell them that it ruins your meal, they will invariably apologize and extinguish their cigarette immediately. Don’t be shy.
Hi Mantrarain,
Sorry for the delay. It is Yojiya (よーじや).
They have an English website at the URL below.
http://www.yojiya.co.jp/english/index.html
OK?
— THIS POST WAS A COMMENT ON THE KYOTOFOODIE ABOUT PAGE AND WAS MOVED HERE ON 25 NOV 08 —
Hello Vincent,
Traditional and spectacular and in Gion — Kikunoi is the place. (www.kikunoi.jp)
In Kyoto there are two choices, Kiyamachi or Honten. The Honten is a little nicer and in a much nicer neighborhood where can walk around before or after dinner.
Honten:
075-561-0015
http://www.kikunoi.jp/honten.htm
Kiyamachi:
075-361-5580
http://www.kikunoi.jp/kiyamachi.htm
They have a really horrible English website (circa 1996).
http://www.kikunoi.jp/english/
The Japanese pages (with photos) give a much better idea of what the restaurant is like.
When you make a reservation, be sure to try book an individual room.
Nouveau Kyoto Spicy: Kyoto Habanero no Sato Honpo 京都ハバネロの里本舗
Traditionally, Japanese food lacks ‘spicy’ hot chili flavors. Ichimi is chili, but it is very mild compared to the hotness of other Asian countries. Even today, most Japanese cannot eat spicy hot food.
Recently, habanero chili, said to be the hottest peppers in the world are making their appearance in Japan and generating a lot of buzz. Several farms from the region of rural Kyoto prefecture known for vegetables and black beans are experimenting with habanero. One such farm, Shino Farm has recently launched a brand of habanero products, while spicy are intended to be suited to the Japanese taste.
The logo is quite delightful, it is cross between a cute, large-eyed geisha and a habanero!
In June of 2008, Kyoto Habanero no Sato Honpo opened their first retail store, which is located in central Kyoto. They offer some novel and perhaps weird products such as habanero candy and habanero shochu which may or may not be of interest to you.
However, their sauces, vinegars, oils and bean pastes are amazing and definitely worth any foodie’s attention. I am quite sure that these products and flavors are unlike any other habanero products in the world. The concept of the founder is to keep the traditional Kyoto sensibilities about taste, subtlety and sophistication and to add this new and traditionally difficult habanero taste in a way that (hopefully) Japanese can enjoy. I think that they have done very well!
products: http://www.kyoto-habanero.com/shouhin.htm (Japanese language but you can see their products)
Anekoji Store 京都ハバネロの里本舗 姉小路店:
http://www.kyoto-habanero.com/anekoji.htm
location: Kyoto Habanero no Sato Honpo is located near the Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Subway Station just west of the Teramachi-dori shopping arcade on Anekoji Street.
website (no English): http://www.kyoto-habanero.com
tel: 075-221-0855
京都市中京区寺町姉小路西入ル丸屋町334-1
Three Furoshiki Shops in Kyoto
Kakefuda
Kakefuda was originally a small workshop that dyed fabric. Now Kakefuda only produces and sells furoshiki and is the only furoshiki store in Kyoto that does design, pattern curving, dying and sewing. All furoshiki, from start to finish are made in under one roof. While Kakefuda offers some traditional designs it is best known for it’s very funky, modern and colorful designs, all of which are their originals.
website (no English): http://www.kakefuda.co.jp
Kyoto-shi Higashiyama-ku Higashioji-dori, Komonzen-agaru, Takabatake-cho 609 (京都市東山区東大路通古門前上ル高畑町609)
tel: 075-821-3230
Karakusaya
Karakusaya is a small shop located in Muromachi, the old kimono dyeing district. While the shop is small, it’s parent company is Japan’s largest furoshiki wholesaler. Karakusaya has a very good collection of furoshiki that are high quality and tend toward the traditional in design. The staff is very friendly and helpful.
KyotoFoodie article: http://www.kyotofoodie.com/kyoto-furoshiki-karakusaya/
website: no English website
Kyoto-shi Nakagyo-ku, Muromachi Rokkaku-sagaru Funayama-cho 510 (京都市中京区室町六角下ル鯉山町510番地)
tel: 075-221-0390
Otutumi Ihee ENVERAAK 伊兵衛 ENVERAAK
This store owned by Eirakuya Group, a large cotton wholesaler that started business in 1615. Their furoshiki stores are very new and their simple patterns are combination of traditional and modern geared toward teenagers.
ENVERAAK is quite a mouthful in Japanese and we are still guessing how to pronounce the name of the store. When asked, the not too bright staff can’t explain the meaning of the store name. Kind a makes you wonder.
Shijo Store 四条店
location: Otutumi Ihee ENVERAAK Shijo-ten is near the Shijo-Kawaramachi intersection. It is on the north side of Shijo Street about 1 or 2 minutes on foot south from Kawaramachi Street. It is on the opposite side of the street from Takashimaya Department Store
tel: 075-222-1622
京都市下京区四条通河原町西入ル御旅町34
Gion Store 祇園店
location: Otutumi Ihee ENVERAAK Gion-ten is located on Shijo Street about half way between Kawabata Street and Higashi-oji Street. It is on the south side of Shijo Street.
tel: 075-551-3534
京都市東山区祇園町南側77-3
website (no English) http://www.otutumi.jp/
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